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Kirjeldus

López de Heredia veinimõisa asutas Don Rafael López de Heredia 1877. aastal. Väga vähe on selle viimase 139 aastaga muutunud ning maailmas on vaid mõni üksik veinimõis, kes tänapäevani valmistab veini oma esivanemate printsiipide kohaselt. Hinnatud veiniajakirjanik Tim Atkin on oma mitteametlikus Rioja klassifikatsioonis valinud López de Heredia veinimaja kõrgeimasse First Growth kategooriasse.

Hispaanias ei ole tõenäoliselt teist veinimõisa, kellel on selline kogemus nii pika laagerdusega valgete veinide valmistamisel. Kui pika tammelaagerdusega valge vein jätta veel aastateks pudelisse küpsema, siis kõik tammes tulevad teravamad nüansid kuluvad maha ning esile kerkivad hoopis teised aroomid – mandlid, vanilje, pähklid ning vürtsikus.

Veini valmistatakse ainult oma aedade saagist. Kääritamine toimub suurtes tammemahutis (60-640 hl), nendest osad on 140 aasta vanused. Veinid laagerduvad vanades suurtes Ameerika tammevaatides, mis valmistatakse ise mõisas. Lopez de Heredia on ainuke Hispaania bodega, kes kõik oma tammevaadid ise käsitsi valmistab. Vein laagerdub tammevaatide 6 aastat, kokku toodetus umbes 16.000 pudelit.

100 ha suuruse Tondonia veiniaia soetas Don Rafael 1913. aastal. See aed asub 500 meetri kõrgusel merepinnast, Ebro jõe paremal kaldal Rioja Alta piirkonnas. Pinnas on peamiselt savine ja kõrge lubjakivi sisaldusega. Tondonia Reserva on laagerdunud 6 aastat Ameerika tammevaatides ning vähemalt 6 aastat pudelis. Kääritamisel pole lisatud pärmi.

Aroomis on tunda kuivatatud õunu ja ananassi, lilleõietolmu, mett, rohelist teed ja estragoni. Maitse on uskumatult värske, tunda on meeldivat happesust, mandleid, pähkleid ja natuke kuivatavaid tanniine ja erinevaid vürtse, kohati meenutab struktuurilt punaveini.

“The 2013 Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia is a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasía Riojana from the Tondonia vineyard, situated along the Ebro River. Aged for six years in oak barrels and an additional two years in the bottle, this wine defies expectations of youth with its bright amber hue. Subtle aromas of honey, dried apricot, tangerine peel and faint oak greet the senses. Initially rich and overwhelming, it evolves into a gently chalky flow with a refreshing touch on the palate. This complex white wine, with its long-lasting finish and final hint of hazelnut, stands for its aging potential like Rioja whites of old.” Antonio Galloni Vinous 96 points

“The 2013 vintage was a lot more successful for whites than it was for reds, as demonstrated by the quality of this cuvée of Viura with 10% Malvasía. Subtle aromas of almond paste and saffron segue into a palate of sourdough bread, beeswax and citrus peel, supported by vivid, beautifully balancing acidity. Remarkable stuff from one of Spain’s greatest white wine producers. Best in 2024-2035.” Tim Atkin 96 points

“An open, balsamic expression of Tondonia. It’s charming and complex, with white truffles, biscuits, roasted macadamia nuts and a touch of Parmesan cheese. Bright and expressive, with a medium body and a long, fluid finish. Beautiful now, but should hold well for the next few years. Drink or hold.” James Suckling 95 points

“We talked a lot about the challenging 2013, but they defended the wines. “There was a big crop, and it was not easy, but it was possible to make great wines.” The 2013 Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva has nutty aromas, perhaps showing a little more development, but according to Mercedes López de Heredia, “[With] the old vines with the right rootstock, in the right soils, you can have more or less quality, but you’re not going to have a disaster.” It’s a wine that has to have aging potential, and they need to start with good grapes, so they harvested earlier, as their grapes were riper because they had lowered their yields. They took risks, and I think they got it right. The palate has intense and pungent flavors, a velvety mouthfeel and a vibrant core of acidity, with a fine thread and a chalky finish. But it’s a slightly weaker year. 14,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2022.” Wine Advocate 94 points