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Description

Vieilles Vignes de Françaises on kindlasti Bollingeri kõige haruldasem ja unikaalsem vein. Kogu piirkonnas täiesti ainulaadne, tegemist on elava tõestusega, milline oli Champagne sajand tagasi, enne kui Phylloxera juuretäi laastas Euroopa veiniaedu. Imekombel elasid mõned veinipuud Ay’s ja Bouzy’s selle kohutava epideemia üle, säilisid vaid mõned põllupeenrad.

Aastakümneid on Bollinger neid haruldasi puid kaitsnud ja säilitanud. Vanu veinipuid  ja põllupinnast haritakse eranditult käsitsi iidsete tööriistadega, vastavalt vanadele traditsioonidele ja meetoditele. Selline viis on aeganõudev ja kulukas, kuid annavad madalat saaki ja võimaldavad marjadel saavutada täiuslikuma küpsuse ja madalama pH taseme, mis on suursuguste champagne’de puhul äärmiselt oluline.

Vein valmistatakse 100% Pinot Noir viinamarjadest ja toodetakse vaid erakordsetel saagiaastatel, veini valmistamiseks kasutatakse kahe üliväikese veiniaia Chaudes Terres ja Clos St Jacques saaki, mõlemad Grand Cru. Veini kogutoodang on umbes 2500-3000 pudelit sõltuvalt aastast, 2013 aastakäiku toodeti 2477 pudelit.

Värvuselt sügav kuldkollane, äärmiselt peene mulliga. Aroom on väga kompleksne, eristuvad Mirabelle ploom ja kuivatatud puuviljad. Maitse on külluslik, avar ja väga värske, jõuline ja rikkalik, isuäratava delikaatse soolaka nüanisiga, eristuvad pähklid, vürtsid, sidrunimoos. Suurepärane kestev lõppmaitse, kus tunda värsket sidrunit ja kerget kriidist nooti.

Falstaff Magazine 99 p
Wine Advocate 97 p
Antonio Galloni Vinous 95 p

“The most subtle hint of raw, buttery shortcrust pastry is followed by a touch of pure, ripe, sweet apple flesh and a promise of mellow creaminess. Overtones of caramel and a pure citric note appear with more air. All is nuanced, all is subtle, all is creamy. The palate strikes with finest foam and a distinct saltiness and real concentration. There is density and depth and ripe apple richness. This is countered by finest, mouth-watering acidity that reveals visceral streaks of umami, shimmering like fresh shiitake and chalky depth. Great elegance, great nuance, endless length, a monument. This is only just hitting its stride.” Falstaff Magazine 99 points

“A brilliant wine, Bollinger’s 2013 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is finer boned and more elegant than the powerhouse 2008, but it is still one of the most powerful, intensely flavored wines produced in the region. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, baking spices, orange oil and ripe stone fruits, it’s full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit girdled by racy acids. Concentrated and vinous, it concludes with a long, saline finish.” Wine Advocate 97 points

“The 2013 Vieilles Vignes Francaises is a powerhouse. Deep in color, the 2013 is rich and ample in feel. Apricot, spice, orange jam, cedar, dried herbs, ginger, honey and leather all meld together in a VVF that is decidedly opulent and vinous, despite the cool season and harvest that took place on September 27, late by present-day standards. Sadly, production has decreased steadily since 2008. Accumulated drought has been a challenge. Those conditions are, of course, amplified by the walls of the clos in these two parcels and the naturally warm climate of Aÿ. I find the 2013 decidedly exotic and a bit on the heavy side. Those lucky enough to own it will experience one of the most distinctive wines in all of Champagne. Production was less than 1,000 bottles. Drink 2022-2038.” Antonio Galloni Vinous 95 points