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Kirjeldus

Aastakäigu ehk “vintage” vääriline saagiaasta Champagne’s tähendab, et koristatud saak ja ka valmiv vein väljendavad endas erakordset kvaliteeti ja aastakäigu kordumatust. Sellistel aastatel saavutavad viinamarjad ideaalse küpsusastme, õigustades otsust valmistada veinisegu ühe kindla aastakäigu veinidest. Üksikaastakäigu champagne La Grande Année annab tunnistust Bollinger’i suursugususest, kombineerides iga aastakäigu eripära Bollinger’i veinmaja unikaalse stiiliga, rõhutades omakorda iga “terroir” omapära ja traditsioonilisi veinivalmistamise meetodeid.

La Grande Année 2015 valmistatakse 60% Pinot Noir ja 40% Chardonnay viinamarjadest, mis pärinevad 11st erinevast “cru” viinamarjaaiast (80% on “grand crus” ja 20% “premiers crus”), Pinot Noir tuleb põhiliselt Verzenay, Aÿ ja Mareuil-sur-Aÿ küladest, Chardonnay viinamarjad on kasvanud Choilly ja Avize külakeste ümbruses. Esmane käärimisprotsess toimub 205, 225 ja 410 liitri suurustes vanades tammevaatides, vältides tugevate tammenüansside ja tanniinide omandamist. Kõik viinamarjasordid, eri viinamarjaaiad ja sageli ka aedade erinevad osad  kääritatakse eraldi. Veini küpsemisperiood pärmisettel kestab veinikeldris rohkem kui 8 aastat, kinnitatuna ajutiste “seenkorkidega”. Pärast dégorgé’i lisatakse veinile dosage, La Grande Année puhul 8 grammi liitri kohta.

La Grande Année on märkimisväärselt täidlane ja intensiivne, rikkalik ja kompleksne, väljendades kindla aastakäigu kasvu – ja ilmastikutingimusi. Värvus on kahvatu kollane kuldsete varjunditega. Aroom on äärmiselt kompleksne ja aromaatne, puuviljane, vürtsikas, floraalne, tunda metsikut virsikut, ploomi, apelsinikoort, safranit, väga värske ja mineraalne. Maitse on kontsentreeritud ja harmooniline, kreemine, äärmiselt värske, suurepärane elav mineraalsus, delikaaatne soolakas järelmaitse. Väga kõrge küpsemispotentsiaaliga 35 – 40 aastat.

Serveerida temperatuuril 8 – 10 kraadi. Toitudest sobib suurepäraselt pannil praetud kammkarbiga, kammkarbi tartar’iga, grillitud homaariga, kvaliteetse linnulihaga kerges kooreses kastmes, vinnitatud singiga, küpsete juustudega.

“Bollinger’s 2015 Brut Grand Année is an intriguing wine in that is clearly reflects the decision to pick on the later side in order to avoid vegetal notes derived from the mismatch of alcoholic and phenolic ripeness. “Balance was hard to achieve in 2015,” Chef de Cave Dennis Bunner notes. “At 10% in sugar, the fruit was simply not ripe. We had to wait to reach the optimal window of ripeness.” Bunner also opted to increase the Chardonnay, so the blend is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, as opposed to the more typical 70/30 blend, with more Verzenay than Aÿ in the Pinots. Dried citrus peel, sage, menthol, sage, tangerine peel and spice build with some coaxing. Light tropical overtones develop with aeration. There’s real density and textural richness here. This will be a fascinating vintage to follow. Stylistically, it is the complete opposite from the much more linear 2014 that precedes it. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: May 2023. 2028-2040.” Antonio Galloni Vinous 96 points

“Enticing, fragrant aromas of toast, lemon zest and an earthy-smoky nuance lead to a palate of subtle Bosc-pear, mango, papaya, even pineapple flavors. Lifted by fresh acidity on the medium-bodied palate, the wine keeps unfolding in toasted walnuts, honey and a dash of bitter marmalade. It’s mouth-filling, alive with acidity and full of finesse. Drink or hold.” James Suckling 96 points

“The 2015 Brut La Grande Année was disgorged last year with eight grams per liter dosage. The wine has turned out beautifully, exhibiting a more muscular, old-school Bollinger profile in contrast to the unusually racy, fine-boned 2014 that preceded it. Wafting from the glass with notes of pear, orange oil and white flowers mingled with notions of mocha, toasted hazelnuts and fino sherry, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with a dense core of fruit framed by chalky structuring extract, concluding with a long, sapid finish.” Wine Advocate 95+ points

“Oops, is it already time for another vintage of this gem? Amazing how fast time goes. 2015 is generally a problematic vintage with heat stress and a period of drought. It is no art to get richness and power in the wines, but elegance and freshness are rare. Because Bollinger’s house style is inherently so masculinely powerful, Bollinger’s eminent team focused on preserving freshness first and foremost. According to Denis Bunner, Bollinger felt that the grapes they had access to gave more typicity and greater elegance to the Chardonnay this time. Hence a slightly higher content of the green grape than in the original recipe. Perhaps even more important was the choice of Avize and Verzenay as engines. Verzenay behaves in many ways like Chardonnay with its chalky elegance and great purity. This time the shares of Aÿ and Verzenay were equal for the unusual skull. Fat Cramant and Oger were now downplayed and Avize was primarily supported by tight Chouilly. An interesting detail that reduces tannin, clumsiness and contributes to an increased sense of freshness is, oddly enough, oak barrels. This is due to its great age and the company’s strict selection of the best casks that only provide microoxidation. The color is already deep golden with a fine stream of tiny bubbles fighting their way up through the glycerol-rich concentrated wine. Intense and rich and at the same time nuanced and complex. The small concentrated grapes ultimately produced an ultimate gastronomic masterpiece. The scent cannonade is classic Bollinger, but fresh and more nuanced than I expected from the vintage. Stone fruits, honeysuckle, honey, plum marmalade, Cox Orange, raspberry, almond, hazelnut, leather, tanned skin, cigar, and duck liver are all clear instruments in the orchestra playing their richly generous vintage anthem. The freshness does not come from acid this time, but from lack of water and concentrated extracts in a similar way as the even more extreme 2003. I finish I find tobacco, forest and chocolate with sea salt, a delicious combination. Precisely the saltiness and the slightly higher tannin content contribute to making this a perfect partner for poultry in all its forms.” Richard Juhlin 93-95 points

“A forward vintage for La Grande Année, with warmth evident in its roasted orange, Comice pear and Mirabelle plum, all polished with a sense of savoury maturity that is very Bollinger at heart. There’s a little more oxygen influence seemingly at play than in the 2014, with brine, nuts and a little dried leaf character already taking this far beyond fruit. The food-friendly chewiness of 2015 is there, but the mousse is supple and the Chardonnay brings the wine to a close with a fine, cooked lemon snap. This will start to show its best integration from 2025 onwards, although it is open for business now. 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims, Grande Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs, all fermented in small oak barrels and disgorged in May 2023 after seven years on lees.” Decanter 94 points