Champagne Bollinger PN TX17 Brut NV 75cl
Bollingeri Blanc de Noirs “3rd release” PN TX17. Veini idee on demonstreerida Bollingeri ühte peamist tugisammast ehk Pinot Noir’i läbi erinevate veiniaedade “terroir”. Igal aastal tuleb müügile 100% Pinot Noir põhine šampanja aga alati mõnest uuest külast või cru’st. Kolmas väljalase PN TX17 pärineb nagu nimest tuletada võib enamuses Tauxières külast, osa marjadest saadakse Avenay ja Verzenay küladest.
PN TX17 on 100% Pinot Noir (Blanc de Noirs), baasveini aastakäiguks on 2017 (50% lõplikust segust), 50% baasveinist on kääritatud tammevaatides. PN TX17 puhul on märkimisväärselt suures osas kasutatud “reserve” veine, lõplikust segust moodustavad need 20%, kõik “reserve veinid” on laagerdunud Bollingeri keldrites ainult magnumites, mis on suletud naturaalse korgiga, “reserve” veinidest on kasutatud veine aastakäikudest 2016, 2009 ja 2007. Lõplik segu on settega kontaktis pudelis küpsenud vähemalt 48 kuud. Disgorgement toimus jaanuaris 2022, dosage on vaid 4 grammi liitri kohta.
Vein väljendab endas Tauxières “terroir” Pinot Noir rikkalikkust ja energilisust koos intensiivsuse, maitsete detailsuse ja komplekssusega. Värvuselt kahvatu õlekõrre-kollane õrna kuldse varjundiga. Aroomis esmalt tunda kuivatatud valgeid lilleõisi, lisaks delikaatne tobacco ja moccha, avanedes lisanduvad lagrits ja kuivatatud puuviljad, väga elegantne ja rikkalik aroom. Maitses külluslik puuviljasus, eristuvad aprikoosimoos, küps virsik ja troopilised puuviljad, lisaks aktaatsiamesi, sarapuupähkel ja värskelt jahvatatud vürtsid. Õrn soolakas nüanss balansseerib suurepäraselt veini värskendavat happesust, lõppmaitses üllatavad punased puuviljad, creme de cassis ja särtsakas sidrunikoor. Otsekohene, energiline ja külluslik vein, kus aroom ja maitse on suurepärases harmoonias.
Toitudest serveerida näiteks Tomme des Ardennes juustuga valmistatud millefeuille’ga, Tonka ubadega maitsestatud chutney’ga, küpsetatud vutilihaga, mida serveeritakse kuivatatud aprikoosidest ja meest-sidrunist valmistatud kastmega, Chaource juustuga. Serveerida temperatuuril 8 – 10°C kraadi, suurepärane joomiseks juba täna, kuid võib hoida veinikeldris järgmised 10-15 aastat.
“A tender nose shows of a sense of fresh, sweet cream and crushed berry – unusually with a hint of blueberry, followed by Red Delicious apple and a beautifully lifted and aromatic note of tangerine. The palate is sinuous and elegant, there is wonderful depth of fruit and that lovely signature creaminess of Bollinger expressed in superfine foam. There is subtle length that only emphasises the depth of flavour. Very elegant, very expressive, as vivid, energetic, and vibrant as the previous releases under this series. Lovely.” Falstaff 94 points
“On the stylish nose, spicy, woody and hazelnut tones meet pristine Pinot Noir fruitiness. The challenging 2017 harvest is the base here, and Bollinger found, in Tauxières, the fruit quality and profile to craft this edition of its pop-up cuvée. Coming with a fine yeasty notion and well protected from oxidation, the fruitiness really shines loud and bright, supported by a complexity brought about by the reserve wines. The palate carries the lightness and freshness of the cool year, and it all ends on a brisk, dry note. This is a delightfully different and beautifully delicate wine from Bollinger. Disgorged 2/22; dosage 4g/l.” Essi Avellan 93 points
“The wine is almost completely dominated by the extremely exciting and rare Tauxières Premier Cru, which is one of two villages classified 99% on the Grand Cru scale. Despite an impressive vineyard area of 237 hectares, it is extremely rare to come across champagnes dominated by this fantastic Cru. A cooler microclimate and a thinner soil layer with even more compact chalk than sunny Bouzy make the wines from here lighter and more elegant than Bouzy but stronger than Verzenay which is also part of this exciting Blanc de Noirs with predominantly base from 2017. Here is also a small splash of Avenay to give a little buttery roundness to the cuvée with its low dosage of 4 grams. The reserve wines that always come from magnum bottles under low pressure make up 48% from three vintages in 2016, 2009 and 2006. In total, half of the wine is made in oak barrels and the other half in steel tanks. The result is very beautiful and personal. The scent has features of lead pencil, juniper and freshly lacquered boat together with more classic coffee notes, rose petals, apricot and peach. The taste is vivid and multifaceted with a lively precision, lighter fruit aromas than you normally find in Bollinger’s wines. Even cassis is one of the more unexpected aromas in this finely tuned complex symphony. Very impressive and exciting champagne that really makes me want to taste more and that I will look out for to my private cellar.” Richard Juhlin 92-94 points
“The NV PN TX 17, 100% Pinot Noir from Tauxières, is the next wine in Bollinger’s new series of single-village Champagnes. Bright and punchy, the 2017 is redolent of pear, dried flowers, mint, chalk and sage. Aromatically, the 2017 could easily be mistaken for a Blanc de Blancs such is its purity, but the richness and resonance of Pinot are unmistakable on the palate. This is an especially, vinous, layered Champagne that offers striking interplay between its intense fruit and the mineral, saline and savory-laced frame that holds it all together. The only thing this could use is a bit more body, as it is a touch austere. Disgorged: February, 2022. Drinking range: 2024 – 2036.” Antonio Galloni 93 points
“The nose is remarkably fine and complex, expressing scents of orchard fruit, white peach, apricot, and lemon with a touch of verbena. On the palate, the immediate impression is of a certain unctuosity providing great charm, and even the structure has round contours, but it seems to tighten on the chalky, airborne finish. The salinity that marked the previous two iterations of this PN series seems less present, with this one having more notes of pastry and hazelnuts as well as some zesty citrus, but airing adds an iodine-like tang. This is a Champagne that should pair well with fresh fish and shellfish dishes. 100% Pinot Noir. Dosage: 4 g/L. Disgorgement: January 2022.” Decanter 93 points
“A finely detailed Champagne, with pointillist bubbles softly bursting on the palate, carrying a delicate, layered range of ripe raspberry and yellow peach, candied ginger and crystalized honey, chopped nuts and fleur de sel. Minerally chalk and saline accents drive the finish. Disgorged February 2022. Drink now through 2025.” Wine Spectator 93 points
“Following the first two releases of PN that focused on fruit from Verzenay, this new release is built on the 2017 harvest in Tauxières. It includes fruit from other villages in the Montagne de Reims, as well as reserve wines aged in magnum bottles, all of it pinot noir. The structure is tight and formal, with savory hints of oyster broth and hazelnut. Jhonel Faelner of NYC’s Atomix enjoyed the wine’s richness, focusing on “a line of acidity down the middle.” Still youthful, this will benefit from a year of rest in the cellar.” Wine & Spirits 93 points
“As with the PN VZ16, the NV Champagne Blanc de Noirs PN TX17 Brut was fermented half in barrels and half in stainless steel. It is also 100% Pinot Noir, mostly from the village of Tauxières, predominantly from 2017, with reserve wines contributing to the blend. Floral on the nose, with yellow orchard fruit and baked bread, it is ripe but more linear in its approach and follow through. It’s a very pretty wine to drink. Best after 2022.” Jeb Dunnuck 93 points
“From the commune of Tauxières and the 2017 vintage, Bollinger’s new NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN TX17 exhibits aromas of crisp pear, orange zest and wet stones mingled with subtle hints of warm bread and dried fruits. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and fleshy, with tangy acids and impressive ripeness for the vintage, it concludes with an elegantly mordant finish. This doesn’t strike me as a year built to make old bones, but it should nonetheless enjoy over a decade’s evolution.” Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 92 points
“A deep honey colour for a champagne. Very seductive nose with considerable apparent evolution on it. Much more youthful on the palate than the nose suggests and some dried apple-skin notes on the bone-dry, impressively persistent finish. Very much in the house style. A worthy successor to previous cuvées of this wine, with its own personality. Drink 2022–2032.” Jancis Robinson MW 17/20 points