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Kirjeldus

Clos des Lambrays on kindlasti Burgundia üks parimaid grand cru’sid, olleks üks neljast Morey-Saint-Denis appellatsioonis asuvast grand cru aiast. Teised on Clos de Tart, Clos Saint Denis ning Clos de la Roche. Clos des Lambrays ajalugu ulatub tagasi juba 14. sajandisse, kuid 1981. aastal omistati sellel aiale grand cru staatus.

Domaine des Lambrays omab 8.66 ha Clos des Lambray’st ning 0.18 ha kuulub ühele teisele tootjale, seega on tegemist praktiliselt monopole veiniaiaga. 2014 aastal ostis veinimõisa LVMH. Clos des Lambrays asub 250m kõrgusel merepinnast, veinipuude keskmine vanus on 50+ aastat ja keskmine saagikus on 31 hl/ha kohta. Clos des Lambrays aastane toodang on umbes 30,000 pudelit.

Viinamarjad pressitakse täiskobaratena ning kääritatakse suurtes avatud terasmahutites 15-18 päeva. Vein laagerdub 18 kuud tammes, millest 50% on igal aastal uued vaadid. Vein on suurepärase tasakaaluga, jõuline kuid samas elegantne ja siidine, mineraalse ja väga puhta pika järelmaitsega.

“I tasted five of the 11 individual parcellaire cuvées – everything makes it in to the final blend except for the young vine block notes in the Morey 1er Cru. Jacques is adamant that the final wine should respect the totality of the Clos. Then we tried the blend: already, this seems to have taken on a deeper colour than any of the individual cuvees. Deep dense dark fruit, with a powerful underlying dark raspberry with some more lifted rose petal notes. Probably 85% whole bunch overall but the power of the fruit stops this taking the lead. It does underpin the whole though, especially on the palate, while there is also a crystalline limestone purity behind the sweetly ripe red berry fruit. The 2020 Lambrays has more heart to it than most vintages I have tasted in barrel. There is a fine long finish, a little liquorice touch, a complex and ageworthy Lambrays. Delicacy with a strong tensile thread. Tannins by analysis are very significant but you don’t see them. From now on, the wine will spend a second winter in barrel each year. I toyed with not giving the wine 5 stars, to leave the new team something to aim at, but the wine merits the top classification.” Jasper Morris 96-98 points “Five Stars”

“Jacques Devauges keeps each portion of the Clos des Lambrays separate throughout the growing season, winemaking and maturation. The final assemblage of each part, however, is synergistically better than any of the separate sections, and there are elements of lovely bright fruit, impressive complexity and dense structure along with fresh, lively and youthful exuberance that all co-exist. A tour de force of winemaking that manages to express the profound nature of the Clos des Lambrays.” Decanter 97 points

“The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru comprises of 80% to 85% whole bunch this year. Since 2019, Jacques Devauges has utilised smaller tanks to vinify subplots separately and raised in several cooperages rather than just François Frères (60% new oak). It has a classically-styled bouquet, very well defined, very fresh, red berry fruit with touches of shucked oyster shell, light loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, very fresh and full of tension. The mineralité clearly comes through on the finish that is far more precise than previous vintages, long and tender on the aftertaste. Cool, calm and collected, this is a riveting Clos des Lambrays.” Antonio Galloni Vinous 95-97 points

“Revisited in bottle, the 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, wild berries, rose petals, sweet spices and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it’s rich and textural, with an ample core of fruit, beautifully powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. Youthfully reserved, like many 2020s, this nonetheless stands out as the finest Clos des Lambrays of the 21st century—for now!” Wine Advocate 96 points

“A fresh red, with black currant and black cherry flavors shaded by floral, iron, earth and spice elements. Fluid and on the elegant side, with a solid underlying framework of tannins. Turns a bit leaner on the finish — a good sign for future development. Best from 2027 through 2048.” Wine Spectator 96 points

“Restrained, cool and elegant aromas are comprised of ripe poached plum, dark currant, anise, rose petal and a hint of earth. The succulent, concentrated and relatively powerful larger-scaled flavors exude evident salinity on the firm, serious, complex and beautifully persistent finale. Patience strongly suggested because while this could very likely be approached after only 7 to 8 years, it should fully repay 15+ years of keeping.” Burghound 95 points