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Kirjeldus

Kumeu veinivaldused asuvad Uus-Meremaa põhjaosas, Aucklandist tunni sõidu kaugusel. Antud piirkond on unikaalne sellepärast, et ainult 15 km läänepoole jääb Tasmani meri ning 20 km ida poole Vaikne ookean. Tänu sellele on kliima pigem jahe ja varakult küpsevale Chardonnay’le ideaalne. Näiteks üle 30 kraadist temperatuuri suvel seal ei esine. Täna omab Brajokovichide kolmas põlvkond 30 hektarit veiniaedu ning toodab kokku umbes 250 000 pudelit veini. Veiniaedade pinnases domineerib savi ning alamkihis on ohtralt liivakivi.

Erinevalt paljudest teistest Uus-Meremaa tootjatest keskendub Kumeu River Burgundia stiilis Chardonnay’de tootmisele. Tänaseks on nende Chardonnay’d saavutanud erakordse rahvusvahelise tuntuse ning ei ole ebatavaline leida neid samas reas maailma parimate valgete veinidega. Nende veinid on kaheksal korral valitud Wine Spectatori top 100 veini hulka (valitakse kord aastas rohkem kui 19 tuhande veini hulgast).

Kõik viinamarjad koristatakse eranditult käsitsi ning Chardonnay puhul pressitakse alati täiskobarad. Veinivalmistamisel kasutatakse ainult naturaalset pärmi, mis annab veinile parema tekstuuri ja komplekssuse. Kõikide Chardonnay’de puhul kasutatakse alati uute ja vanade Prantsuse tammevaatide kombinatsiooni. Malolaktiline kääritamine ei olnud 30 aastat tagasi valgete veinide puhul tavaline, aga Michael Brajkovich kasutas seda juba 1980date alguses. Tulemuseks on paljum parem happesuse tasakaal.

Mate’s on Kumeu Riveri parim veiniaed, kust saadakse vaid 1000 kasti veini. Kääritamine toimub tammevaatides, kus ka vein 11 kuud küpseb. Vein, mis vajab kõige kauem küpsemiseks, 5-10 aastat. Mõnikord võrreldakse Corton Charlemagne’ga. Aroom on noorena natuke kinni, tunda on virsikut ja mineraalsust. Maitse on väga kontsentreeritud, kuid heas tasakaalus ja eriti värske, mis on ka selle veinile alati omane.

“The concentration and density of Mate’s Vineyard shines through in this wine even though the 2023 vintage was lighter with a moderate alcohol of 12.5%. No new oak was used in the vinification due to the lighter yields but there was a high proportion of 1 & 2 year old barrels which means the oak feel to this wine is similar to other vintages The vine age of Mate’s Vineyard, now 33 years, contributes to the inherent quality and reputation of this wine and we are confident that bottle age of up to ten years will be beneficial. Extremely limited in supply and will cellar for 7-8 years from vintage.” Michael Brajkovich

“An event! The best Chardonnay in New Zealand? Next to or even ahead of Dog Point for sure. At least the number 1 of the North Island. Short standing time, whole cluster pressing, spontaneous fermentation. Fermented and aged in French wood, minimal batonnage. Lush fruit, peach, nectarine and mango, very rich and full yet elegant like a Puligny-Montrachet. Vibrant palate, allspice pepper with lush juicy fruit, nuts again, mineral salty length. Stylish Chardonnay, nice tautness to it, superb definition.” Heiner Lobenberg 98+ points

“Very steely and floral, with brightness and impressive aromas of honeysuckle, lemongrass and just a touch of cream. Medium- to full-bodied with layered and creamy phenolics that give a lovely, almost velvety texture to the wine, and then the end is so crisp and minerally.” James Suckling 97 points

“A little deeper in colour compared to the other wines in the range this year, the nose here has impressive peachy ripeness, together with notes of orange blossom, mandarin, and enticing baking spices. The palate is glossy and fuller bodied than the rest of the range too, effortlessly rich and powerful, the density of citrus and orchard fruit matched by balancing, lightly tangy acidity. Moreish layers of sweet and savoury spices from the wood are generous but well-integrated, and will add intrigue as this wine ages in bottle. The density here will allow for comfortable bottle ageing, yet the breadth and immediacy of the delicious fruit core means that this is a Mate’s you can also drink now. Excellent.” Thomas Parker MW 95 points

“More reticent than the other wines on the nose but the richness and density come through on the palate. The Mendoza clone fruit really shines this year, the small berries giving and intensity and concentration. This is the 31st vintage of Matés and Brajkovich is committed to treasure the vines, even though ever present leaf-roll virus remains. Enticing and fine boned with a surprisingly lengthy finish. Drink from 2027 – 2032.” Jane Skilton MW (Inside Burgundy) 95 points

“The 2023 Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay is complete; all flavor points and spice characteristics are present and accounted for, albeit restrained and even a little muted. The low-lying Maté’s vineyard received plenty of rain and runoff in the 2023 rainfall, but the wine still feels fresh, vibrant and focused. There are notes of shaved fennel, white pepper, almond meal and tatami mat/straw—a decidedly white spectrum of flavor and spice. Stylistically, I usually see this wine being quite punchy, powerful and sometimes tropical. In this wet year, the wine is retrained and decidedly composed—while some may view this as being “not the Maté’s style,” I think it is a very good iteration of this vineyard. Time will tell, but I like it a lot. 12.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.” Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 94 points

“Maté Brajkovich’s family purchased this vineyard in 1944, and he reworked the land in 1990 (planting the Mendoza clone). The first grapes were harvested in 1993. Like Hunting Hill, this is a wine made using no new oak and just the best one and two-year-old barrels. A powerful nose here with serious extract and a commanding feel rolls onto the palate, bringing a stern nature to every aspect of this wine. As always, this is the most backward of the set, and in 2023, the fruit is particularly adroit. The finish is completely closed and uncommunicative, and this is where the power pack lies. The energy will seep into this wine over the next decade and more, allowing the fruit to relax and expand; however, this will always be a leaner and more chiselled wine.” Matthew Jukes 18,5+ points (20 max)

“Bigger in dimension than the others. Sweeter on the initial impression and then it tightens up. Less obviously rich than some previous vintages, presumably because of the wetter vintage. Still quite closed but with great density and a savoury finish. You can almost taste little particles in it! Should last extremely well.” Jancis Robinson 17,5 points (20 max)