Reunion Passion, Burgenland, Kracher & Neckenmarkt 75cl
Gerhard Kracheri ja Neckenmarkti uus ühisprojekt, mille eesmärgiks on toota parimat Burgenlandi Blaufränkisch’it.
“For generations, Mittelburgenland has been considered a stronghold of the autochthonous Austrian grape variety, Blaufränkisch. The loess and loam content of the soils usually produce deep and, at the same time, heavy and powerful wines. The conditions are a bit different in the top vineyard site, Hochberg, where mica schist is found interspersed with loess and gravel. However, on the Höhnrücken, the foothills of the Ödenburger mountains, the soils are not heavy, but rather are alpine with a rocky sub-surface that provides good heat storage. Born here are wines with a light-footed character, and show clear structure and minerality.
Part of the grapes for the Reunion wines come from slopes with a steepness of up to 30%. The slopes are favourably exposed to plenty of direct sunlight during the ripening period. At the same time, the soils here are meagre, which means the vines must form deeper roots – ultimately yielding healthier, more vital grapes. Also important is that the vineyards are relatively high for Burgenland – reaching to 450 meters above sea level. Here, the nights are cool, which helps to slow the ripening process of the grapes and leads to the formation of thick skins – both of which benefit the development of strong aromas and moderate alcohol levels. The grapevines on average are more than 20 years old.
The Blaufränkisch grapes thrive in the ideal conditions of these top vineyards. The vine rows are green and, thanks to the presence of beneficial organisms living here, the use of insecticides are completely avoided. Gentle foliage work in the summer ensures high physiological maturity at harvest time. Grape yields are limited: 4500 kilograms per hectare for Reunion Passion. The harvest takes place very late in the year. Grapes from the 2015 vintage were ready at the end of October. Picked by hand and under strict selection, only fully ripe and healthy grapes were allowed in the harvest baskets.
The Reunion Passion is fermented in steel tanks with its own natural yeasts; no selected yeasts are added. For the 2015, the wine spent four weeks on the mash and went through malolactic fermentation on the mash as well. Then the wine was filled in barriques – which are, for the most part, used 225-liter barrels, depending on the vintage. With the supreme 2015 vintage, only 20% of the barrels were used (second filling). In general, the wine first matures on the fine lees for several months to give it fullness and suppleness, and then spends at least ten months in small wooden barrels. For 2015, it was 14 months. After its bottling and a few weeks of storage, the Reunion Passion will be launched on the market in the third spring following the harvest.
Reunion is strong and expressive – but not heavy. Those looking for international comparisons may find some similarity to wines from southern Rhône or Priorat. While the wine show very individual character and personality, the characteristics of the variety Blaufränkisch have just as much weight as those of the origin of Mittelburgenland. On the nose dark fruit with notes of ripe sour cherries, elderberries and blackberries along with scents of herbs and dark tobacco. The first impression on the palate shows freshness and concentration; dense, focused and complex wines. A firm structure with finely woven tannins gives backbone and grip together with a touch of velvety opulence, dark fruit notes with distinct minerality.”
Cellarmaster Gerald Wieder