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Kirjeldus

PN AYC18 on Bollingeri Blanc de Noirs’i “4th release”. Veini idee on demonstreerida Bollingeri ühte peamist tugisammast Pinot Noir’d läbi erinevate veiniaedade. Igal aastal tuleb müügile 100% Pinot Noir’st valmistatud šampanja aga alati mõnest uuest külast või cru’st. Neljas väljalase PN AYC18 pärineb nagu nimest tuletada võib enamuses Aÿ külast, osa marjadest saadakse Tauxières, Verzenay ja Avenay küladest.

PN AYC18 valmistamiseks kasutatud viinamarjadest pärineb suur osa Bollingeri oma külast Aÿ’st (47% marjadest). Baasveini aastakäiguks on 2018 (50% lõplikust segust), pool baasveinist on kääritatud tammevaatides. PN AYC18 puhul on märkimisväärselt suures osas kasutatud “reserve” veine, kõik need veinid on küpsenud pudelis Bollingeri keldrites, suletud naturaalse korgiga. PN AYC18 jaoks on kasutatud “reserve” veine aastakäikudest 2017 ja 2016 ning lausa neljandik on aastakäik 2009 (küpsenud magnumis suletuna naturaalse korgiga). Lõplik cuvée on seisnud settega kontaktis pudelis vähemalt 48 kuud. Disgorgement toimus jaanuaris 2023, dosage on vaid 6 grammi liitri kohta.

Vein väljendab endas Bollingeri koduküla Aÿ “terroir” Pinot Noir rikkalikku võimsust ja kordumatut elegantsi koos maitsenüansside detailsusega. Värvuselt on vein õlekõrre-kuldne, pisut pronksi varjundiga. Aroomis esmalt tunda mett, vaniljet, puuviljamoosi, ebaküdooniat ja karamell-tsitruseid, lisaks martsipan ja veriapelsin, avanedes lisanduvad magusad vürtsid ja värskendav mentooline nüanns. Maitse on rikkalik ja avar, intensiivne puuviljasus, eristuvad punased kirsid, ploomid, kuivatatud nektariin, lõppmaitses sidrunimoos, erakordne värskus, kreemine tekstuur.

Toitudest serveerida küpsetatud linnulihaga, kvaliteetse küpsetatud valge kalaga serveeritud valge kastmega, erinevate küpsetatud koorikloomadega, juustuga valmistatud küpsetistega. Serveerida temperatuuril 8 – 10°C kraadi, suurepärane joomiseks juba täna, kuid võib hoida veinikeldris järgmised 10-15 aastat.

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“PN AYC18 is a showpiece for the expansive dimensions, intoxicating allure and purity of Aÿ pinot noir; a wonderfully characterful blanc de noirs that celebrates the sumptuous fruit generosity of 2018 and the purity and precision of this fabled cru. With the generous tones of a full straw hue and a blush tint, it ripples with grand fruit depth of red cherries and perfectly ripe plums. The magnificent depth of complexity that is Bollinger rumbles in deep reserves, reminiscent of fruit mince spice and dried nectarines. I love that it is so emphatically Aÿ, so intrinsically Bollinger, and yet all transposed with the transparency and delicious fruit generosity that is 2018. It holds fantastic, succulent allure on a very long finish; the ripeness of 2018 translating in supple, silky fruit generosity, yet in no way heavy or broad, beautifully energised by the fine chalk salinity and pure acid freshness that make Aÿ such a beloved place”. Tyson Stelzer 97 points

“Finally, it was time for Aÿ to take center stage in Bollinger’s new Pinot Noir series. It wasn’t until the fourth edition that one got home to the house’s most powerful stronghold and DNA. In comparison to the three previous editions, we are dealing with a tasting winner from the start. The oak notes and the home village’s smoky features hit me like a wall of sauna, grilled meat, hazelnuts and tar. The color is deeper than in previous editions and the power stronger than in the first three PN. 47% of the wine comes from the home village in casks both from 2018 and in the reserve wine on magnums from 2009. In between these mighty parts we have steel tank-aged Tauxières, Avenay and Verzenay from the lighter and more mineral-influenced vintages of 2016 and 2017. This particular side takes the biggest place in the middle register and mid-palate of the wine. In aroma and aftertaste, Aÿ pushes forward with its broad muscular shoulders and leaves no one untouched. A bargain with peak 2030–2035!” Richard Juhlin 93-95 points

“Bollinger finally based its 4th edition of this pure Pinot Noir cuvée on its home terroir Aÿ’s fruit. As much as 47% of the blend is made up of Aÿ Pinot Noir, lending its broad and silky yet chalky print on the wine, which Verzenay, Tauxières and Avenay-Val-d’Or support. The amply fruity 2018 vintage represents a half of the blend, its ripeness giving a light peachy tone already to the colour. The rest is constructed of 2017 and 2016 reserve wines and as much as 25% of 2009 vintage reserve wine magnums. The supple nose comes with sweet vanilla tones, apple compote, orange blossom and pencil shavings. There is an immediate charm also to the fleshy and airy yet precise palate. Towards the back palate an energising freshness emerges, adding vivacity to the creamy and textured whole. A beautifully constructed cuvée playing on all the Bollinger fortes. Dosage 6g/l.” Essi Avellan MW 93-94 points