Sassicaia 2023, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, Tenuta San Guido 75cl

334,80 €

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Sassicaia on markii Mario Incisa della Rocchetta ja veinikonsultant Giacomo Tachis’ise loodud maailmakuulus vein, mis oli esimene ja kindlasti kõige mõjukaim kaasaegne tammevaadis laagerdatud punavein Itaalia veinivalmistamise ajaloos. Pikki aastaid valmistati Sassicaiat vaid oma pere tarbeks, esimene ametlik aastakäik, mida maailmale esitleti oli 1968. aastakäik ja seda valmistati kokku 3000 pudelit. Veini maailmadebüüt oli äärmiselt edukas, paljudel erinevatel degusteerimistel oli Sassicaia esimeste seas ja seda peeti tihti tippklaasi Bordeaux veiniks. 1983. aastal suri Mario Incisa della Rocchette ja veinimaja juhtimise võttis üle tema poeg markii Nicolo Incisa della Rocchetta. Nagu paljusid tänapäeva kuulsaid “super-toscana” veine, tähistati ka Sassicaiat alguses lihtsalt “vino da tavola”, mis hiljem tõsteti IGT kategooriasse. Tänu veini ülemaailmsele kuulsusele ja kõrgele kvaliteedile, omistati Tenuta San Guido mõisale 1994. aastal seninägematu piirkondlik staatus, veinimõisale ja veinile anti täiesti oma Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC kvalifikatsioon. Anda ühele veinile oma piirkondlik kvaliteedistaatus, see on tänaseni väga haruldane nähtus kogu maailmas.

Tenuta San Guido veiniaiad asuvad Toscana veinipiikonna Bolgheri alamtsoonis. Veiniaiad hõlmavad kokku 75 hektarit, valdus on jagatud mitmeks erinevaks osaks, Castiglioncello, Doccino ja Quercione aiad asuvad 200 – 300 meetri kõrgusel merepinnast, San Martino ja Mandrioli aiad asuvad mäenõlvakutel pisut madalamal kõrgusel ja Sassicaia ja Aianova sektorid asuvad 80 meetri kõrgusel merepinnast. .

Sassicaia 2023 on valmistatud 87% Cabernet Sauvignon ja 13% Cabernet Franc viinamarjadest. Veinipuude keskmine vanus on umbes 50 aastat. Marjaleotus ja käärimine (pärmi lisamata) leiavad aset roostevabast terasest 35 – 110 hektoliitri suurustes mahutites ja protsess kestab 9-12 päeva. Malolaktiline kääritamine toimub terasmahutites. Vein laagerdub 225 liitri suurustes Prantsuse tammevaatides 24 kuud, vaatidest 40% on uus tamm, 40% kord varem kasutatud ja 20% kaks korda kasutatud, pärast tammelaagerdust seisab vein 12 kuud terasmahutites ning seejärel pudeldatakse.

Kontsentreeritud aroomiga, maitselt elegantne, ideaalselt balanseeritud struktuuriga ja väga rikkalik. Maitses marjasordile omane mustsõstar koos tammevanilje nüansiga, siidiste tanniinidega. Järelmaitses münt, seedripuu ja sigarikarp. Väga pika vananemispotentsiaaliga vein, mis võib veinikeldris küpseda 30 – 40 aastat. Serveerida 16-18 kraadi juures.

 

“Very few vintages of this legendary Tuscan wine deliver the immediate joy, richness and complexity found in the Tenuta San Guido 2023 Bolgheri Sassicaia. Tasted both before and after its January 2026 bottling, this is a wine that feels uncannily open and generous in its youth, a rare trait for Sassicaia, which is famously inscrutable at this stage. The 2023 vintage was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by a severe outbreak of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing brutal fruit selection and resulting in a 20% reduction in yields. Only the estates willing to make these sacrifices succeeded, and the best wines rank among the most compelling and elusive of recent years. The blend includes 13% to 14% Cabernet Franc alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Franc playing a decisive phenolic role that reinforces elegance, linearity and brightness. Aromas unfold with wild sage, rosemary and dark fruit before moving into crushed stone minerality, rose petal and a finely spiced spectrum of pink peppercorn, nutmeg, anise, cardamom, bergamot and blood orange, joined by a delicate note of mentuccia romana, sweeter and gentler than classic mint. The palate shows beautiful softness framed by chalky tannins and mineral tension. Its acidity shines bright and guarantees long cellar aging potential. The wine remains fluid and flexible in the glass as different facets of the bouquet emerge. Like the legendary 1985, 2023 was a difficult and stressful vintage shaped by a cold winter, yet it stands as proof that great pressure can indeed give birth to diamonds.” Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 100 points

“Very cool, complex and pretty aromas of black currants, fresh herbs such as sage and rosemary, with lavender and violet undertones. Medium- to full-bodied with crunchy and layered fruit delivering currant, plum, spice, cedar and bark flavors as well as polished and velvety tannins. A very clear and distinctive Sassicaia with true character of the estate.” James Suckling 99 points

“The 2023 Sassicaia was tasted as an early preview, as it was bottled in January. In the glass, it pours a youthful, jeweled ruby hue and is immediately expressive, with seductive layered aromatics of redcurrant, plum, sweet sage, orange peel, and suede, alongside subtle notes of graphite and fresh herbs. Full-bodied yet remarkably lifted, it moves across the palate with precision and energy, supported by refined tannins and a vibrant spine of acidity. There is a saline, coastal freshness that adds tension and length, carrying through a long, persistent finish. The wine shows excellent balance between ripeness and structure, with a polished texture and a clear sense of place with umami undertones. Already compelling, it has the framework to evolve gracefully over the coming decades. It’s composed of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc and was aged for 24 months in 40% new French oak.” Jeb Dunnuck 98+ points

“Sassicaia 2023 will divide drinkers. While its quality is without question, it takes the idea of finesse and elegance to another level. In truth, this is more a reflection of the vintage conditions than a winemaking decision – but that’s what all great wineries aim to show in the glass, isn’t it? For some, this will be too light, too floral, and too far removed from ‘classic’ Bolgheri. For others, especially those who have been following this estate for several years, it’s a dream come true; a true-to-life model for the future of Italian reds. Me? I’m on the fence. It almost pales in comparison to the depth of fruit and chewy tannins of 2022, while the 2019 tasted alongside emphasises juiciness and silkiness. Supple, lifted and fragrant, 2023’s pure, crunchy bramble fruits, succulent, sapid mid-palate and prolonged freshness make you think differently…in a very good way. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc.” Decanter 98 points